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In Reply to: French trip with college - help! posted by Cinders on May 12, 2001 at 6:40 am:
Here's a short language tutorial that might help:
Je suis un végétarien(ne). Je ne mange pas de viande, de
porc ou de poulet (I am a vegetarian(female). I do not eat meat,
pork or chicken)
Je mange des oufs, du lait et du fromage (I eat eggs, milk
or cheese)
Je ne mange pas d'oufs, du lait ni de fromage (I do not eat
eggs, milk or cheese)
Végétalien(ne) (vegan)
J'aime des animaux, alors je ne les mange pas (I love animals,
therefore I don't eat them)
-------------------
Here is an article from a 1993 publication called "The Vegan Guide to
Paris," that lists several restaurants:
Paris in springtime is romantic, exhilarating, amazing. In short,
it's a Cliche everyone should experience - vegetarians included.
But there is one problem. The French, as any vegetarian who ever
crossed the channel knows, ne comprennent pas people who choose
not to eat meat and fish. Nor do they want to. French
restaurateurs are food fascists, and in their view, vegetarianism
is a gastronomic crime worthy of la guillotine. But if you know
where to look there are some great eateries in every arondissement.
Alex Bourke, author of The Vegan Guide to Paris, dons his stripey
headband and makes for the vegpots of the French capital...
Central Paris (Arrondissements 1/2/9/10)
Contains the Louvre art gallery, the huge shopping centre at Les
Halles, and lots of department stores and cafes. Walking around
should give you a monster appetite, so check out these refuelling
stops:
Country Life Restaurant & Shop 6 rue Daunou (2nd)
Tel: 42 97 48 51 - Lunch: Monday-Friday, 11.30-14.30. Dinner:
Monday-Thursday 18.30-22.00.
Closed Saturday, Sunday. Metro: Opera or 4 Septembre.
Skip breakfast and make a beeline for Country Life's all-you-can
eat lunch buffet for 58F. Keep refilling your tray with delicious
vegan soup, salad and cooked goodies until you explode.
Sydney Health Food, 46 passage Choiseul (2nd)
Tel: 49 26 0l 71 - Open: Monday-Friday 9.00-18.00. Metro: Pyramides
or 4 Septembre. Veggie fast food cafe and take-away.
La Fermette D'Olivier, 40 rue du Fauborg Montmartre (9th)
Open: Monday-Friday 12.00-15.00, 19.00-22.00.Metro: Le Peletier or
rue Montmartre. Delightful, mainly vegetarian, macrobiotic restaurant.
Les Seves, 43 rue Lafitte (9th)
Tel: 42 81 94 46 - Open: Monday-Friday 8.00-17.30, Metro: Notre
Dame de Loret or Richelieu Drouot.
Fast food restaurant with good selection of vegetarian dishes.
The Marais (Arrondissements 3/4)
Contains the fascinating Pompidou Centre and lots of quaint
sidestreets full of unusual boutiques.
The Jewish quarter around rue des Rosiers is full of tempting
delicacies.
Aquarius Vegetarian Restaurant, 54 rue Ste Croix de la
Bretonnerie (4th) Tel: 48 87 48 71 - Open 12.00-22.00.
Closed Sunday and August. Metro: Rambuteau or Hotel de Ville.
Chez Rami et Hanna, 54 rue des Rosiers (4th)
Open every day until midnight. Metro: St.Paul
Jewish restaurant which does the biggest and yummiest take-away
special falafel in Paris for 22F.
Au Grand Appetit, 9 rue de la Cerisaie (4th)
Tel: 40 27 04 95 - Monday-Thursday 12.00-18.00, Friday, Sunday
12.00-14.00, Metro: Bastille
Atmospheric Jewish macrobiotic shop and restaurant.
Piccolo Teatro, 6 rue des Ecouffes (4th)
Tel: 42 72 17 79 - Open: 12.00-l5.00, 19.00-23.00, closed Monday
and Tuesday, Metro: St Paul
Totally vegetarian specialising in gratins, plus some great vegan
macrobiotic grub. Peaceful and charming, the ideal spot for that
romantic dinner date.
St Michel & Luxembourg (Arrondissements 5/6)
This is the student area. Check out Notre Dame cathedral, the
Jardin de Luxembourg, the shops in rue St Andre des Arts, and
watch a film in English at Odeon. You'll find take-away falafels
for 18F at the eastern end of rue de Huchette. Make sure you get
a tissue ('serviette') over the bottom of your falafel or it will
dribble tahini sauce on you.
Le Grenier de Notre Dame, 18 rue de la Boucherie (5th)
Tel: 40 65 91 84, 43 29 98 29 - Open 12.00-14.30, 19.00-23.30
every day.
Metro: St Michel or Maubert-Mutualite
Great vegetarian restaurant with English-speaking staff near
Notre Dame with a gigantic menu and loads of macrobiotic options
(some include fish). Best value is the 70F economic menu, with
several choices for each of the three courses. Although the
'Assiette Macrobiotique' (macrobiotic plate) on the menu includes
fish, the one on the economic menu does not.
La Petite Legume, 36 rue des Boulangers (5th)
Tel: 40 46 06 85 - Open 12.00-14.30, 19.00-21.30, Closed Sunday.
Metro: Jussieu or Cardinal Lemoine
Lovely, quiet veggie restaurant and take-away with friendly English
speaking staff. Afterwards you could try the nearby Irish pub
Finnegan's Wake.
Eiffel Tower (Arrondissement 7)
After the Eiffel Tower, you can go down to the river for a boat
ride or head for...
Veggie, 38 rue de Verneuil (7th)
Tel: 42 61 28 61 - Open: Monday-Friday 9.30-14.30, 16.00-19.30.
Metro: Rue du Bac
Nice little shop and vegetarian restaurant with take-away food.
Avenue Champs Elysees (Arrondissement 8)
A window shopper's paradise full of chic boutiques and cinemas
showing films in version originale
(V.O.), i.e. English.
Bonneterre, 92 boulevard des Batignolles (17th)
Tel: 42 93 35 24 - Open 11.30-l 5.00. Metro: Villiers
Not entirely vegetarian restaurant and wholefood shop in the 17th,
right on the border with the 8th, with a stunning view of the
Sacre Coeur church.
Naturesto, 66 avenue des Champs Elysees (8th), inside a shopping
centre.
Tel: 42 56 49 01 - Open: Le Snack 11.30-l9.OO, Restaurant:
12.00-15.00,Closed Saturday, Sunday.
Metro: Franklin-Roosevelt.
Vegetarian restaurant and snack/juice bar on two levels of the
shopping centre. Try a scrummy banana juice or soya milkshake.
Montmartre (Arrondissement 18)
One of the most colourful areas of Paris. Everyone goes to
the Sacre-Cour, a big church on top of a hill with a fabulous
view of Paris. Nearby is a square full of artists who'll sketch you.
Afterwards you can wander down the hill to the vegetarian restaurant
Rayons de Sante, through the street markets to the the infamous
Moulin Rouge, Next door is Paris's best disco The Locomotive.
Les Rayons de Sante, 8 Place Charles Dullin (18th)
Tel: 42 59 64 81 - Open: Sunday-Thursday 9.00-15.00, 18.30-22.00,
Friday 9.00-15.00,
Metro: Abbesses or Anvers
Vegetarian restaurant and small shop, tucked away in a quiet corner.
The ideal place for a quick lunch after 'doing' the Sacre-Coeur.
Au Grain de Folie, 24 rue de la Vieuville (18th)
Tel: 42 58 15 57 - Open: Monday 19.00-22.30, Tuesday-Friday
12.00-14.30, 19.00-22.30, Saturday & Sunday 12.00-22.30.
Metro: Abbesses
Lovely English-owned vegetarian restaurant.
Shopping for Le Picnic
Buy a bottle of mineral water and head for the following food depots:
Bakers (la boulangerie) sell a wide range of bread from wholemeal to
baguettes as well as erotica gastronomique like chocolate and almond
croissants.
Supermarkets (le supermarche) sell soya yoghurt, peanut butter, and
delicious milk and plain vegan chocolate.
Street Markets (le marche) are everywhere with mountains of fruit,
veg, nuts and dried fruit.
Arab Grocers (l'epicier arabe) are the French equivalent of wholefood
stores, with evrything in sacks, including nuts, dried fruit and olives.
Cafés
You can spend all day in a café and no one will hassle you.
Mineral water is dead expensive. So are infusions (herb tea)
But if you sit there for two hours writing postcards it will
seem like good value, because you're paying for the ambience
(frog for atmosphere), not the water. Better still, leave your
liver at home and try du vin instead.
Parlez-Vous Veggie?
beurre d'arachides, or beurre de cacahuettes - peanut/cashew nut butter.
Végétarien(ne) - vegetarian
Végétalien(ne) - vegan
biologique or bio - organic
yaourt de soja - soya yoghurt
Paris Beach
Feeling tired after all the sightseeing? Then take a big bottle of
water, lots of food and your suntan oil and head west for Paris
beach in the Bois de Boulogne. There is a beautiful, peaceful,
tree-covered island in the middle of a large lake, reached by
ferryboat for 5.50F return. Here you can sunbathe all day and
enjoy a picnic.
Eurodisney
Kids love Eurodisney, and it can be lots of fun for serious grown
ups too if you turn off your brain for 12 hours and regress to age
nine. The best rides are the Star Tours, Rocky Mountain Railroad,
and Pirates of the Caribbean. It costs 225F for an all day pass,
plus the cost of getting there. Then everything is free except food.
Go during the week to avoid the weekend crowds. You can get
baked potatoes with chilli for 15F in front of the Rocky Mountain
Railroad in Frontierland. A word of advice: eat your potato after
the ride.
-------------------
Here are some more restaurant listings. You'll find some duplication
with the above lists:
Vegetarian Restaurants
Country Life, 2nd, 6 Rue Daunou, tel# 01 42 97 48 51, Metro Opera
Closed on Saturdays and Sundays.
Aquarius, 4th, 54 Rue Sainte Croix de la Bretonnerie, tel# 01 48 87 48
71, Metro Rambuteau
Nice enough little bistro, large menu, on the right bank not that far
from the Louvre. The neighborhood of the restaurant is not so nice.
Au Paradis du Fruit, 4th, 1 rue des Tournelles, tel# 01 40 27 94 79,
Metro Bastille
Le Grenier de Notre Dame, 5th, 18 Rue de la Bucherie, tel# 01 43 29 98
29, Metro Maubert-Mutualite
Great little restaurant near Notre Dame. The proprietress was raised
partly in the UK and partly in France. The food is top notch, they speak
English and they're very friendly. Recommended.
(Following are comments from a number of different people):
A 5 minute walk south of Notre Dame ... and it was wonderful ... a
great collection of foods with and without meat of any kind ... and the
non-alcoholic drinks are to die for.
However, the tables are very small and the restaurant is something
like two levels (stories) high. Don't be physically challenged and go here.
I think they're really expensive comparing what you get. And I must
say it wasn't that good. And they didn't speak one word English!
I liked it so much, I ate there twice. It seemed less than 5 minutes
from Notre Dame, unless you're walking very slowly! I found the Hotel
DeVille Metro stop also pretty convenient since I was staying on the
right bank. It's a nice walk across the pont d'arcole.
Aquarius Café, 14th, 40 rue Gergovie, tel# 01 45 41 36 88, Metro
Pernety
The meal there was superb.
Joy in Food, 17th, 2 rue Truffaut, tel# 01 43 87 96 79, Metro Place de
Clichy
On the evening that we went, "Joy in Food" wasn't open. No opening
hours were displayed either, so all you might do is phone to check
if/when they are open.
Au Grain de Folie, 18th, 24 Rue de la Vieuville, tel# 01 42 58 15 57,
Metro Abesses
Our most successful visit was to "Au Grain de Folie". This is a small
place (probably about six tables), and its menu is also fairly modest in
range. However the food is very good, the atmosphere relaxed, and the
staff friendly and English-speaking. It's also in Montmartre, a
particularly charming district.
Make sure you call before going. Very small restaurant and hours are
unpredictable. It was, however, the most fabulous dining experience in
Paris.
The owner is the only worker in the place ... a true "at home" dining
experience .... and she runs out of food .... ergo .... call ahead of time
so she has time to shop.
Piccolo Teatro, 6 rue des Ecouffes. Metro : St-Paul.
Open Tue-Sun noon-3pm, 7-11pm.
Great atmosphere, small and intimate. Relatively inexpensive, and I
had a really nice red wine with dinner. There is no english translation for
the menu, but the waitress spoke fine english and was helpful.
Les Quatre et Une Saveurs, 72 rue du Cardinal-Lemoine. Metro :
Cardinal-Lemoine.
Open Tue-Sun noon-3pm, 7-10.30pm.
La Petite Legume, 36 rue des boulangers.
Restaurants with Vegetarian Entrees
Le Vieil Ecu, 1st, 155 Rue St. Honore, tel# 01 42 60 20 14, Metro
Palais-Royal
Folk music Saturday evenings.
Restaurant Lac d'Or, 6th [St. Germain], 5 rue Gregoire de Tours, tel#
01 43 29 09 08
A Chinese/Vietnamese/Thai restaurant with a menu vegetarien which was
very good and cheap.
Café Beyrouth, 8th, 37 bis, rue du Colisee, tel# 01 42 89 02 05
...has a wonderful assiette vegetarienne...Lebanese food.
----------------------
Here's some feedback we got recently from a VegSource friend:
"The Aquarius was wonderful, the food great, the service delightful, and
ABSOLUTELY NO SMOKING.
Piccolo Teatro is small and allows smoking, so we stayed away.
My two big issues were smoke, and handicap accessibility. Aquarius'
toilettes were
down ten fairly easy steps with a strong handrail. It was almost impossible
to get
a cab after dinner on a rainy night, took two hours, but the staff was so
delightful
and helpful that it was worth it for a good story For anyone who cares, our
servers
didn't speak English (my French is good enough, but that might be an issue).
"
------------------------
Here is a list of veg restaurants by "arrondisement". Duplicates much of
the
above list; but it might be useful:
1st arrondissement:
Entre Ciel et Terre - 5 rue Herold
La Victoire Supreme du Coeur - 41 rue des Bourdonnais
2nd arrondissement:
Country Life - 6 rue Danou
4th arrondissement:
Aquarius - 54 rue
Sainte-Croix-de-la-Bretonnerie Chez Julien - 1 rue de pont Louis-Phillippe
l'Ebouillante - 6 rue des Barres
Le Grand Appetit - 9 rue de la Cerisaie
Piccolo Teatro - 6 rue des Ecouffes
Rami et Hanna - 54 rue des Rosiers
La Truffe - 31 rue Vieille-du-Temple
5th arrondissement:
Le Grenier de Notre-Dame - 18 rue de la Bucherie
La Petite Legume - 36 rue des Boulangers
Les Quatre et Une Saveurs - 72 rue du Cardinal-Lemoine
Au Jardin des Pates - 4 rue Lacepede
6th arronidissement:
Guenmai - 6 rue Cardinale
La Lutetia - 23 rue de Sevres
Tch'a - 6 rue du Pont de Lodi
7th arrondissement:
La Varangue - 27 rue Augerau
Veggie - 38 rue de Verneuil (near Musee d'Orsay)
8th arrondissement:
La Vie Claire - 13 rue de Castellane
9th arrondissement:
La Fermette d'Olivier - 40 rue du Faubourg Montmartre
11th arrondissement:
Calypso - 4 boulevard Jules-Ferry
Tenshim - 8 rue Rochebrune
La Ville de Jagannath - 101 rue Saint-Maur
12th arrondissement:
L'Appetit Natural - 8 rue Emilio-Castelar
13th arrondissement:
La Vie Naturelle - 178 avenue Daumesnil
Au Jardin des Pates - 33 boulevard Arago
Le Bol en Bois - 35 rue Pascal
14th arrondissement:
Aquarius - 40 rue Gergovie
Dietetic Shop - 11 rue Delambre
15th arrondissement:
Adi Shakti - 9 rue Gutenberg
17th arrondissement:
L'Epicerie Verte - 5 rue Saussier-Leroy
Joy in Food - 2 rue Truffaut
18th arrondissement:
Au Grain de Folie - 24 rue Lavieuville
Rayons de Sante - 8 place Charles-Dullin
19th arrondissement:
La Chouette - 113 rue de Crimee
These names have been taken from "Vegetarian France", by Alex Bourke and
Alan Todd, Vegetarian Guides, London, 1998. Please check that these
establishments still exist and call first for hours and reservations.
---------------------------
And a final, very redundant list; but we include it because there are
several
worthwhile remarks:
this list which, though somewhat duplicative of the
previous information, has some worthwhile comments on the
restaurants:
Au Grain de Folie
24 rue de Vieuville, 75018 Paris
(tel: 1-43-87-05-41); [near Montmatre]
old-fashioned English vegetarian food, e.g apple crumble; extremely tight
fitting (don't go if you are disabled or have children); lots of English
spoken.
Le Grenier de Notre Dame
18 rue de la Bûcherie, 75005 Paris
(tel: 1.43.29.98.29)
[near Notre Dame; Métro: St Michel]
macrobiotic restaurant, largely vegetarian, some vegan, menu doesn't appear
to change much from year to year; tables: pavement, ground floor and
upstairs;
disabled access poor except for sitting outside
Aquarius
(a) 40 rue de Gergovie, 75014 Paris
(b) ?? rue Ste. Croix de la Bretonnerie [in the Marais, close to the Centre
Pompidou]
vegetarian restaurants, but vegans beware: I have been served non-vegan
dishes in
both despite explicit and clear requests, and the staff really don't care;
tables: ground
floor; disabled access good except for toilets
La Petite Légume
36 rue des Boulangers, 75005 Paris
(tel: 1.40.46.06.85)
vegetarian restaurant, some vegan; good food, good portions; staff can be
unfriendly:
maybe it was just because Janet and I have been there several times with
Jemima; my
sister and her boyfriend went there and enjoyed it; tables: ground floor and
first floor; toilets: first floor; disabled access possible.
Le Bol en Bois
35 rue Pascal, 75013 Paris
(tel: 1.47.07.27.24) [Métro: Gobelins]
macrobiotic, vegan-friendly, very plain food, ascetic decor, friendly staff;
tables: ground floor; disabled access good.
Le Jardin des Pâtes
a) 4 rue Lacepède, 75005 Paris
(tel: 1.43.31.50.71) [Métro: Jussieu/Place Monge]
b) 33 boulevard Arago, 75013 Paris
(tel: 1.45.35.93.67) [Métro: Gobelins]
home-made organic pasta, some vegetarian, limited (but reliable) vegan;
tables:
pavement and ground floor, tight fitting; disabled access: possible.
Open 12:00-14:30 & 19:00-23:00
-------------------------
TL