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Though there
is dispute, archaeologists believe taro is indigenous to New Guinea
and was first cultivated five to ten thousand years ago. Taro was
one of the 23 plants that the Polynesians brought with them to Hawaii
when they first settled the islands and it has a special place in
Hawaiian culture to this day. Known as kalo in Hawaiian, many varieties
have been cultivated with an almost religious reverence over the
years. Indeed, taro plays a prominent role in some of the creation
stories. There are many ancient cultural beliefs and rituals about
its importance in Pacific cultures.

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Because taro must
be grown by hand and is labor intensive, but nevertheless has been
cultivated since ancient times, its spiritual, as well as nutritional
value is highly significant. Currently, taro is grown in over 60 countries.
There are over 300 varieties of taro, varying in color from white
to purple, either of the wet land or dry land type. Wet land taro
is grown in flooded fields capturing the water from mountain and spring
sources, similar to rice cultivation. Taro is reproduced by separating
the "babies" or Keiki, from the mother plant.
A member of
the Philodendron family, taro is a relative of Diffenbachia which
can be dangerous to humans when eaten. The noxious ingredient in
taro is calcium oxalate which causes an itchy, needles and pins
sensation when eaten raw. The oxalate crystals stick to the mouth
and this fact may prevent many insects and other animals from eating
it. The good news is that cooking renders the oxalates harmless
and the abundant nutrients in taro can then be enjoyed and promote
human nutrition.. The skin and leaves of the taro plant can be eaten
if cooked. The flowers are considered a delicacy. Taro is high in
potassium, and the leaves, called luau, are an excellent source
of calcium, iron and vitamin A and C.

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In Hawaii, taro
is eaten in many recipes. One of the most popular traditional ways
Hawaiians eat taro is to steam it in the underground oven or imu
and then pound it into poi with a specially carved stone on a carved
board made for the purpose. Special poi making machines have brought
technology to the poi making process. Hawaiians love poi but many
non-Hawaiians consider it to be an acquired taste. To promote greater
acceptance of this traditional Hawaiian food, and support traditional
agricultural practices in Hawaii, an entrepreneur from Maui, Robert
Mitnick, developed a delicious vegan recipe for taro burgers.
The Original
Maui Taro Burger.
In
early 1997, Mitnick began experimenting with recipes for taro burgers.
His dream was to create a product that was delicious, nutritious,
would support local farmers and provide income for his family. Over
85% of foods eaten in Hawaii are imported. This seems ironic in
a warm climate with rich, volcanic soil. But much Hawaiian land
was devoted to sugar and pineapple plantations over the years. Mitnick's
goal was to support local agriculture and develop a family run business.
Many visitors to Hawaii know about the beautiful beaches, but how
much do they learn about the traditional agriculture while taking
in the sun as they eat primarily imported food?
At the same
time Mitnick developed his first recipe for taro burgers, I arrived
in Maui to conduct a food education program sponsored by PCRM. By
coincidence, John Cadman, food service director, and I were discussing
the food based curricular units I would be teaching when Mitnick
arrived with his samples of taro burgers. Mitnick had identified
the school lunch program as a potential market for his product.
Cadman and I agreed that I would develop a special unit on taro
burgers and we would pilot them in the his school to determine if
the kids would eat them. Robert introduced us to local taro farmer
Gladys Kaona and her grown children, who came to the school to discuss
taro cultivation and assisted the students in planting taro on the
school grounds. I next developed and introduced a sensory-based
educational unit about taro burgers to the students. They cooked,
tasted, and evaluated them in the classroom with their peers. We
next served taro burgers as a choice in the lunch program. The students
loved them!
The school lunch
program cannot be underestimated as a vehicle for promoting student
health or student disease. Over 53 million children eat in schools
every day. With the current crisis in diet-related diseases ravaging
children's health, the school meals program needs to be utilized
more effectively to overturn this disturbing trend. Replacing double-bacon
cheeseburgers with taro burgers will potentially have enormous positive
impact on our children's health.
The
recipe that Mitnick has developed for his taro burger is completely
vegan. As he proudly states, there is no ingredient that you cannot
pronounce in his recipe and they are meat and wheat free. Mitnick's
burgers are made from Taro Root, Taro Leaves ( luau), Brown Rice,
Carrots, Corn, Onions, Sunflower Seeds, Oats, Tomatoes, Canola Oil,
Garlic, Sea Salt, Natural Herbs & Spices. 83% of the ingredients
are fresh and local, in stark contrast to 85% of Hawaiian foods
being imported. Only the brown rice and spices are imported from
the mainland. And they are extremely delicious. The Honolulu Star
Bulletin conducted a survey where the Maui taro burger was compared
to two other popular veggie burgers and it received the highest
rating for taste from the judges. I can attest that they are truly
delicious.
Currently, I
am working with 6 language immersion schools on 3 of the islands
in collaboration with Kekai Irwin, curriculum specialist, on a grant
from the Hawaii Health Department. Since one of our primary goals
is to teach the students about healthy traditional foods from their
ancestors and around the world, we hope to feature taro burgers
in the lunch program as a mainstay. Hawaii leads the US in diet-related
diseases. The diet imported from the mainland has wrecked havoc
on the Native People. Replacing spam with vegan taro burgers is
a positive step to reverse this tragic situation. A school garden
that includes taro cultivation has been developed at the Kamakou
school in Kailua on Oahu, led by parent and organic farmer, Mark
Paikuli-Stride. The garden is integrated with the food-based curriculum
and student learning and enthusiasm is evident. A goal is to teach
students about cultural traditions that promoted healthy agricultural
practices and human nutrition.
The Maui Taro
Burgers are currently being offered through Whole Foods Market,
Southwest Region, at their Boulder CO. store. Let's hope that Maui
Taro Burger's mainland debut is successful and that taro burgers
become a regular item on school menus in all fifty states.
For more information
about Maui Taro, contact Robert Mitnick, Hawaii Taro Co.
Address: 375 West Kuiaha Road, #63
PO Box 416
Haiku, Maui, Hawaii 96708
Email: taro@maui.net
Web page: www.hawaiitaro.com
Antonia Demas
can be reached at antoniad8@yahoo.com
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