One of my fondest memories from meat-eating days is eating savory lotus-leaf "tamales" as we shopped the crowded Sunday streets of Vancouver's Chinatown for vegetables and Asian specialties. When I became a vegetarian, I vowed to produce a meatless version that brought back those memories. If I'd only known how easy that would be, I would have done it years ago!

This is wonderful snack food, or celebration food, and very easy to prepare. Glutinous or "sticky" rice (which, by the way, contains no gluten) is considered by the Chinese to be nourishing for the elderly, for convalescents, and for women after childbirth. This delicious, sticky rice can be found in any Asian grocery store and many large supermarkets where there is a sizable Asian population.
I particularly like the flavor of the vegetarian "roast duck"-style braised gluten (seitan), which you can find in cans in Asian grocery stores. However, if you can't find that style, and don't wish to use homemade, use any other style of canned Chinese braised gluten, even the "abalone style". Rinse it well before using.

Have ready:
1 and 1/2 c. raw glutinous (sticky) white rice, soaked 1-8 hours in 2 and 1/4 c. cold water
3 lotus leaves, soaked 1 hour in hot water to cover, then drained and wiped dry, and cut in half
white string or twine
roasted sesame oil for brushing the leaves

Filling Ingredients:
2 (10 oz.) cans vegetarian "roast duck" (braised gluten-- mun chai'ya
10-12 medium-sized dried Chinese mushrooms, soaked, stemmed, and chopped
1 medium carrot, scrubbed and diced small
2 T. chopped vegetarian "ham" or veggie "Canadian (back) bacon"
1 T. dry sherry
1 T. light soy sauce
1/2 T. EACH minced fresh ginger and garlic
1 tsp. roasted sesame oil

Rice Flavoring:
2 T. light soy sauce
1 T. dry sherry
1 T. roasted sesame oil
1/2 tsp. salt

Bring the rice and soaking water to a boil in a heavy-bottomed medium pot with a tight lid. Turn down to low and cook for 35 minutes. Set aside.

If using the canned vegetarian "roast duck", remove it to a colander and rinse it well. Chop the vegetarian "roast duck" or braised gluten into small chunks. In a large wok or heavy skillet, stir-fry the Filling ingredients together over high heat until they are well-mixed and fragrant. Remove from heat. Add the cooked rice and the Rice Flavorings and mix well.

Brush the insides of the lotus leaf halves with roasted sesame oil. Pile one sixth of the filling in the middle of each leaf and press it together well. Fold the edges of the leaf in to make a tight package. Tie each package with white string or twine, as you would a package. Place the packages on an oiled plate or steam basket and steam for 15 minutes over plenty of boiling water.

Remove the string or twine before serving the packages. They are good hot or at room temperature.

BRYANNA'S STIR-FRIED VEGETARIAN "DUCK" WITH CHILI, BELL PEPPER AND BLACK BEANS Serves 2 to 4

Ridiculously easy to make, with outstanding flavor and appearance.

1 (10 oz.) can vegetarian "roast duck" (braised gluten [seitan]-- mun chai'ya), rinsed and drained and cut into small chunks
1 T. cornstarch
1 T. oil

Vegetables:
1/2 a large red bell pepper, seeded and cut into 1/2" squares
1/2 a large green bell pepper, seeded and cut into 1/2" squares
4 green onions, cut in 1" lengths
1 T. fermented black beans
2 cloves garlic, minced
1/4 tsp. dried red chili flakes

Cooking Sauce:
1/2 c. vegetarian broth
1 T. dry sherry
1 T. light soy sauce
1 tsp. light unbleached sugar
1 tsp. cornstarch dissolved in 1 T. cold water

Mix the cubes of "duck" or "oyster sauce"-coated tofu with the 1 T. cornstarch. Heat a large wok or heavy skillet over high heat. When hot, add the 1 T. oil. When the oil is hot, add the "duck" or tofu. Brown in the hot oil. Immediately add the vegetables (including the garlic, black beans and chili flakes). Stir-fry for 2 or 3 minutes. Add the Sauce ingredients, EXCEPT for the dissolved cornstarch. Heat to boiling. Stir in the dissolved cornstarch and stir until thickened. Serve immediately.

BRYANNA'S STIR-FRIED "CHICKEN" AND MUSHROOMS IN VEGETARIAN "OYSTER" SAUCE serves 4

This is a vegetarian adaptation of one of the first Chinese dishes I cooked regularly. It is a very luxurious-tasting dish.

2 c. thinly-sliced canned vegetarian "roast duck" (braised gluten [seitan]-- mun chai'ya
1 very small onion, chopped
2 T. light soy sauce
2 T. water
1 T. cornstarch
1 clove garlic, minced
1 T. oil
1/2 lb. fresh mushrooms (any kind), sliced
1/2 c. vegetarian broth
2 T. vegetarian stir-fry sauce (vegetarian mushroom-based "oyster" sauce)
1 tsp. light unbleached sugar

In a medium bowl, combine the "duck" slivers with the onion, soy sauce, water and cornstarch. Let stand while you prepare the other ingredients and heat the pan.

Heat a large wok or heavy skillet over high heat. When it is very hot, add the oil. When the oil is hot, add the protein mixture and stir-fry for 2-3 minutes. Add the mushrooms and stir-fry again for 2-3 minutes. Add the broth, "oyster" sauce, and sugar. Stir and let the dish boil briefly until a thickened sauce forms. Serve immediately.

BRYANNA'S HUNAN-STYLE "DUCK" CURRY Serves 4

This is an excellent winter dish. It has all the flavor of a long-cooked stew, but is quick to make. The Chinese generally use an oil-based curry paste ( Daw Sen brand from Calcutta is good), which can be found in most Asian grocery stores, but a good-quality curry powder will do.

Curry is not a Chinese ingredient, but was adopted in some areas where there was trade with India. Chinese curry dishes are generally eaten in the winter.

1-2 cans vegetarian "roast duck" (braised gluten [seitan]-- mun chai'ya), rinsed and cut into 1" pieces
1 T. oil
3 T. curry paste or powder
2 T. minced garlic
2 tsp. grated ginger
1/2 tsp. chili garlic paste
1 large green pepper, cut into 1" squares
1 large onion, peeled, cut into 6ths, layers separated
1/4-1/2 lb. mushrooms, halved (use 1/2 lb. if you only use 1 can of "duck")
2 c. vegetarian broth
1/4 c. light soy sauce
1/4 c. dry sherry
2 T. cornstarch dissolved in 2 T. cold water

Heat a large wok or heavy skillet over high heat. When it's very hot, add the oil. When the oil is hot, add the "duck", along with the curry, garlic, ginger, and chili paste. Stir-fry for a minute or two, then add the green pepper and mushrooms. Stir-fry for another 2 minutes. Add the broth, soy sauce and wine. Cover, turn the heat down to medium-low and simmer for 10 minutes. Stir in the dissolved cornstarch, turn the heat up to high, and stir until it has thickened.

BRYANNA'S HUNAN HOT AND SOUR VEGETARIAN "DUCK" Serves 4

2 cans vegetarian "roast duck" style gluten (seitan) (mun chai'ya)
1 T. oil
1 small green pepper, seeded and cut into 1' squares
1/2 c. sliced celery
1/2 c. thinly-sliced carrots
1 T. fermented black beans, mashed with a fork
1 T. grated fresh ginger
1/2 T. minced garlic
1 tsp. chili garlic paste
1 c. vegetarian broth
2 T. light soy sauce
2 T. rice, cider or white wine vinegar
2 T. dry sherry
1 tsp. cornstarch, dissolved in 1 T. cold water

Rinse the "duck" in a colander and cut it into bite-sized pieces. Heat a large wok or heavy skillet over high heat until very hot. Add the oil. When the oil is hot, add the "duck' and stir-fry for a couple of minutes. Add the vegetables, black beans, garlic, ginger, hot bean paste, and broth. Boil 1 minutes. Add the soy sauce, vinegar, and wine, turn down the heat and simmer 4-6 minutes. Stir in the dissolved cornstarch and stir until thickened. Serve immediately.

BRYANNA'S NEW VEGETARIAN "CASSOULETTE" Serves 6-8

At first glance, a cassoulet appears to be a healthful dish—all those beans1 But the traditional version is full of particularly fatty cuts of meat. Sundried tomatoes, vegetarian "mock duck", carrots, and mushrooms take the place of the meats that are customarily used in a cassoulet. (A “cassoulette”, by the way means “a small cassoulet”.)

The list of ingredients for this dish looks long, but it’s really quite simple to make (especially if you use canned beans). It is absolutely delicious and makes a great company casserole. It's even better when made ahead and reheated.

2 cans Chinese vegetarian "roast duck" (mun chai'ya), rinsed, drained and cut into chunks
1 T. roasted (Asian) sesame oil
10 fresh or reconstituted dry shiitake mushrooms, stemmed and halved
OR 1 large portobello mushroom, sliced
4 oz. fresh chanterelles, thickly sliced
1/2 c. chopped vegetarian “Canadian back bacon” or “ham”
OR 2 T. soy “bacon” chips (I like ClubHouse brand) or bits
1 T. extra-virgin olive oil
2 large onions, chopped
1 whole bulb or head (not clove) of garlic, peeled and chopped, or 8-12 peeled cloves from a jar, chopped
2 stalks celery (including leaves), chopped
2 bay leaves
2 carrots, scrubbed and cut into chunks
3 / 15 oz. cans, or about 4 and 1/2 c. cooked white kidney beans (cannellini)
14 oz. can diced tomatoes and juice
1 c. dry red wine (can be non-alcoholic)
2 c. vegetarian broth
10 oil-packed sundried tomatoes, well-rinsed under hot water
2 T. soy sauce
2 springs fresh rosemary (or 1 tsp. dried)
2 springs fresh thyme (or 1 tsp. dried)
2 sprigs fresh sage (or 1 tsp. crumbled dried leaves)
pinch ground cloves
salt and freshly-ground pepper to taste

TOPPING:
1 c. fresh wholegrain breadcrumbs mixed with
1/4 c. chopped fresh parsley
2 T. ground flaxseed (opt.)

Heat oven to 350 degrees F.

Heat sesame oil in a large nonstick skillet. Brown the "mock duck", quickly in the hot oil. Add the mushrooms and the vegetarian “bacon” or “ham” and stir-fry until the mushrooms give up their liquid and it evaportates almost completetly, adding a bit of water or wine as necessary to keep the mixture from sticking. Set aside.

In another nonstick skillet, heat the olive oil over medium-high heat. When it’s hot, add the onions, garlic and celery. Stir-fry and, when the onion starts to soften and brown, add the bay leaves and carrots. Saute a little longer and, when the onions are soft, set aside.

Mix in a large casserole or small roasting pan: the drained beans, the browned mushroom mixture, the sauteed vegetables, the tomatoes, wine, broth, sundried tomatoes, soy sauce, rosemary, thyme, sage, and cloves. Taste for salt and pepper.

Mix the Topping ingredients and sprinkle evenly over the casserole. Bake for 1 and 1/2 hours.

Serve with bread, salad and fruit – it’s a very hearty dish, so keep the rest of the meal simple!

Bryanna Clark Grogan

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